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I feel privileged to have become the world’s largest dealer in early American Stars & Stripes. I stock at least 1,000 flags at all times, and I am always on the hunt for more rare and beautiful examples. I take great care in both the preservation and the presentation of flags, and I encourage you to read more about the conservation processes that I use. I employ the services of a full-time conservation staff to mount and frame both flags and other early textiles, so that they can be faithfully preserved for many years of enjoyment and are ready to hang in your home or place of business.

I offer an unconditional guarantee of authenticity. I have dealt in early Americana for 18 years, and for the past 12 years have emphasized in 19th century textiles. In addition to flags, I also have expertise in quilts, of which I have long been a dealer and collector, plus hooked rugs, samplers and show towels, theorems, patriotic banners, kerchiefs, and yard goods. For several years I worked closely with Dr. Jeffrey Kenneth Kohn, the American flag consultant for Sotheby’s Auction House in New York and their internet equivalent, Sothebys.com. While Dr. Kohn and I were working together, he catalogued both the Connelly and Mastai Collections, the two largest groups of American flags ever to be sold at public auction. But there is no substitute for learning about any manner of antique object that compares to literally handling thousands of examples, both rare and common. The education gained from being able to physically compare thousands of flags has allowed me to learn more about our nation’s symbol than any active flag dealer in the country. The information I have gleaned along the way is processed and translated into the lengthy descriptions that accompany each flag that I sell.

What’s So Interesting About Antique American Flags?

People are often surprised to learn that before 1912, lack of a specific design for the American national flag left a great deal open to interpretation and imagination. Given the level of respect our flag demands today, it is difficult to conceive that for the first 135 years of its existence, the star pattern was left up to the whims of its maker. The same was true of the number of points on the stars, not to mention all aspects of the flag’s proportions. Circular star patterns were a favorite in the period between the Civil War (1861-65) and the 100-year anniversary of our nation’s independence in 1876. Occasionally the stars formed one great big star, termed the Great Star or sometimes the Great Flower pattern. And in rare instances they even formed letters and numbers to spell words and dates. There were all manner of arrangements of rows and columns, but the stars were positioned this way and that and seldom did they all point upward.

Because there so many interesting star configurations were designed by individuals who lacked formal training, Stars & Stripes flags of the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries can be viewed as some of the greatest creations in the history of American folk art. They can be framed like paintings or draped like quilts from a supportive bar, and are interesting substitutes for both of these objects.

The flags I offer have played an important and intriguing role in American history. Unlike some other types of antiques, every flag has a story. Whether or not we know its specific history of use, within each flag there is a tale that can be unfolded concerning how it received its star count and what new state or states were involved. Sometimes there are interesting accounts of why that particular number of stars was chosen by one flag-maker and not another, or why it was quickly abandoned.

Given the liberties Americans were afforded in flag design, it is not so difficult to understand why a tasteful degree of text and graphics was almost as permissible as the stripes or stars themselves. American presidential candidates began using the red, white, and blue as a medium for printed campaign advertising as early as 1840. The first on record were made for William Henry Harrison, who served the shortest term ever as our commander-in-chief. Though he contracted pneumonia at his inaugural speech and died just 30 days later, this beloved American figure unknowingly left behind some of the most extraordinary American flags now known to exist. Thus began a sixty-year term in American history, during which time it was perfectly acceptable for seekers of American political office to place their names, faces, and platform slogans on the much-loved symbol of our nation.

Near the end of the nineteenth century, there was a growing shift in public opinion to uphold the Stars & Stripes as a sacred object, worthy of the most scrupulous ethics regarding its use and display. Attempts were made to ban the use of the flag for advertising in 1890 and 1895, but it was not until the year 1905 that the U.S. Congress finally decreed that the use of text or portraits on official insignia of the United States would afterwards be outlawed. Some traditions die hard, however, and this did not entirely eliminate it. Later examples survive, probably made without the respective candidates’ consent, but the turn of the new century generally marked the end of an era where politicians sought to woo their constituency with bold and whimsical versions of Old Glory.

Condition

Unlike samplers and quilts, most flags of the 18th and 19th centuries were expected to have been used outdoors. This often subjected them to wind and water damage, despite the conscious efforts of their owners. Military use introduced other hazards, of course, and was generally more strenuous. It is for these reasons that flags are not expected to be perfect. Often times they have the rips, tears, stains and foxing that reveals their age. For many of my clients, this adds significantly to their appeal, because history is apparent in the worn, weathered, and much loved symbol of our nation. So while condition can certainly play a role in the price of an antique flag, it is far from the most important factor. A level of damage that would destroy the value of an early quilt, for example, can be entirely inconsequential with respect to an American flag.

Types of Flags

There are basically two types of flags: sewn flags and parade flags. 19th century sewn flags are typically larger than seven feet in length. They were pieced together by hand-stitching or by machine, and were intended for use over extended periods of time. Parade flags are typically small in size, generally less than three feet, and were printed on cotton, silk, wool, and sometimes on paper. Also called hand-wavers, their purpose was intended for short term use at parades, political rallies, and other patriotic engagements. Parade flags were typically tacked or glued to a stick, intended to be waved at an event. Sewn flags were flown on staffs, poles, or masts, draped vertically on the walls of buildings, and hung from ropes, balconies or porches.

The same two kinds of flags exist today, but we seem to have found many more ways to use them. As we moved through the 20th century, the use of sewn flags became much more focused on decorative purposes, instead of fulfilling the utilitarian role of a signal to identify an American ship or structure. For this reason, modern sewn flags are generally much smaller in size than their 19th century counterparts. Today, for example, one might describe a five-foot long flag of sewn construction as “rather large”, but before 1890, a five-foot sewn flag is extraordinarily small, and a four-foot sewn flag is almost non-existent among surviving examples. Even infantry battle flags, carried by ground forces, were typically six by six-and-a-half feet, which is about the size of an average bed quilt of the same period.

After 1840 and the advent of printed flags, decorative flags were more often printed on fabric, rather than sewn. Many collectors limit themselves to printed parade flags (hand-wavers), precisely because of their small size. Many examples have beautiful star patterns and are highly sought after. We frame them very precisely in a conservation manner, most often using a frame that was made during or before the time that the flag was made. Many of the flags I use are actually earlier than the flag itself and I am especially fond of early surfaces (original patina). Parade flags typically range in size from about 3" to about 3' in length.

Many people who are new to flags shy away from printed flags, due to an uneducated notion that they are less valuable. Due to their size and extraordinary visual qualities, that is seldom the case. I set a world record at auction in 2007 by paying $83,600 for a printed, Stars & Stripes flag, so they are nothing sort of serious. Two weeks later I broke the world record for a sewn, Stars & Stripes flag at $120,700, so the disparity between the two types of flags is relatively small.

Early sewn flags (those of the 19th century and prior) typically range in size from 7' to 18' in length. Those that are 5' in length and smaller are much more scarce, and they are highly desired because they are easier to display. Smaller sewn flags can be framed in a traditional manner, or they can be stretch-mounted and displayed inside a museum quality plexiglas box. Larger flags can be hung in a variety of ways. They can be folded over onto themselves and framed to show just the stars and a portion of the stripes. They can also be folded to look like they are waving, which shortens the length in an attractive manner. And they can sometimes be displayed without frames if the light conditions are favorable, and the flag isn’t of extraordinary value, by hanging them in a manner similar to quilts or tapestries.

Terminology

Canton / Union — With regard to an American national flag, this is the blue quadrant or where the stars are located, sometimes referred to as the “Union”. The term is taken from heraldry. On a traditional coat-of-arms, the shield is divided into four sections; each of these quadrants is called a "canton". Some flags have four cantons like many heraldic shields. The American National flag has only one canton.

Double-Appliquéd Stars — A type of star application where a separate star is sewn on either side of the canton. This is the more common of the two methods of stitching stars to a flag. SEE ALSO single-appliquéd stars and reverse-appliquéd stars.

Great Star Configuration — Small stars arranged in such a manner that they form a single large star.

Grommets — Metal or whip-stitched reinforcements through which rope could be tied for flying a flag. Common thinking among military historians used to be that metal grommets did not exist during the Civil War and were therefore not used on Civil War era flags. This is a common falsehood, however. I have owned many Civil War-period flags with metal grommets, and my former business partner claimed to have seen a flag with 1854 patent date-stamped grommets. There are at least two patents prior to the Civil War. These are # 5,779, issued to E.H. Penfield on Sept. 19, 1848, and # 11,108, issued to J. Allender on June 20, 1854. In fact, Penfield’s 1848 patent is actually an improvement on an existing design, and therefore can not be the earliest date.

Gussets — Square or rectangular reinforcements sewn onto in the corners of flags, to increase the amount of fabric and stitching in the places where they receive the most stress during use.

Medallion or Wreath Configuration — stars arranged in concentric circles, often with a center star and "outlier" stars in each corner.

Notched Star Configuration — Shorter rows of stars that create distinct notches in an otherwise rectilinear star pattern. This was typically done to leave space for the easy addition of more stars.

Outliers — Stars outside the main pattern, such as those in the outlying corners of a medallion or wreath pattern canton, or an oddly placed star next to a wreath or “Great Star” design.

Parade Flags / Hand-Wavers — Flags that were made by silk screening or stamp-printing ink dye or paint onto cotton, silk, wool, paper, or rayon. Such flags were intended for one day’s use at a parade, political event, military reunion, or some other rally. They were typically tacked or glued to a wooden staff. Parade flags were often discarded or destroyed, so some early examples are rare. They come in sizes ranging from about 1 1⁄2 inches to 5 feet in length, although most are smaller than 3 feet in length. Today they are typically printed on nylon, polyester, plastic, or cotton. SEE ALSO sewnflag and printed wool flag and press-dyed flags.

Printed Wool / Press-Dyed Flags — A type of flag made by press-dying on wool bunting. Because wool sheds water, such flags were intended for use over an extended period of time. Press-dying was first patented in the U.S. in 1848. Most existing flags made of press-dyed wool (and wool/cotton blends) seem to be limited to the period between the Civil War (1861-65) and WWII (1841-45). Some were tacked to sticks while others had canvas or linen sleeves, sometimes with brass grommets. SEE ALSO sewn flags and parade flags.

Random Star Configuration — A configuration of stars without rows, columns, or any apparent pattern.

Rectilinear Star Configuration — Rows or columns of stars that result in some form of overall rectangular shape.

Reverse-Appliquéd Stars — A construction method seldom seen in American national flags. Here the canton is made by taking a length of blue fabric and cutting out star shapes. This is appliquéd over a white background to create the stars. SEE ALSO double-appliquéd stars and single-appliquéd stars.

Reverse / Backwards Mount — Parade flags were typically printed on long bolts of cotton or silk. They were printed on one side only and the color naturally bled through to the other side. This was intentional and resulted in a two-sided flag, but one side was almost always stronger than the other; more distinct and darker. In some cases, these flags were overprinted with text and images for the purpose of advertising. Sometimes this text is only on one side. As a result, we sometimes find it necessary to mount some flags with the cantons backwards, enabling the viewer to read the overprinting. In the 19th century, the same flag ethics we have today did not exist, so this seemingly backwards positioning was just as acceptable.

Scattered Star Positioning — Rows or columns of stars that face in various directions on their vertical axis. These rows or columns may be arranged in a rectilinear fashion, but the stars point in a variety of directions.

Sewn Flag — A flag made in the traditional manner, sewing its components together. Early sewn flags are typically made of wool bunting, silk, cotton, linen, or some combination of these materials. The sewing can be done by hand or machine.

Walter Hunt built the first crank-operated American sewing machine in 1833-34. Elias Howe, of Massachusetts, completed his first mechanized sewing machine prototype in 1844, and it was issued an American patent in 1846.   Because of problems marketing his invention, Howe went to London to further develop the machine. Treadle sewing machines were first mass-produced in 1855 by American, Issac Singer.

By the time of the Civil War, sewing machines were being used on roughly 60 – 70% of American national flags. By the Centennial, the treadle machine was used on almost all stripes, but the stars were typically still hand-appliquéd. By the Spanish American War (1898), hand sewing on American National Flags had all but vanished.

Many 18th and 19th century military flags actually had painted stars. These were often gilt-painted in gold or silver, but are sometimes white on homemade flags. SEE ALSO parade flags and printed wool / press-dyed flags.

Single-appliquéd Stars — A type of star application where only one piece of fabric is used to make a star that is visible on both sides of the flag. On a stars and stripes, this is accomplished by making star-shaped cutouts in the blue material. A white star is then appliquéd over top of the star shaped hole. On the reverse side, the rough cut fabric is rolled over and hemmed so that the white star shows neatly through the hole. Single appliquéd stars are generally preferred by collectors, both due to their rarity and the interesting look that this type of sewing creates. SEE ALSO double-appliquéd stars and reverse-appliquéd stars.

Vertical Mount / Correct Vertical Position — Manner of hanging a flag vertically instead of horizontally. After approximately the year 1900, the proper position for the canton of the flag is always in the upper left corner, whether the flag is horizontal or vertical. During the 19th century, however, the same flag ethics that we have today did not exist.

Wreath or Medallion Configuration — stars arranged in concentric circles, often with a center star and "outlier" stars in each corner.

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